Cannes Beyond the Croisette
by Eniko Gasko
Cannes is one of those places that seems instantly familiar, even before a first visit. The Croisette, the red carpet, the grand hotels and the Palais des Festivals have created an image that travels far beyond the city itself.
But Cannes is more layered than that image suggests.
Walk a few streets inland, climb towards Le Suquet, browse the market in the morning or take a boat across to the Lérins Islands, and the city begins to feel very different. The glamour is still there, but it sits alongside an older, more local and often quieter Cannes.
Le Suquet: where Cannes began
Le Suquet is the historic heart of Cannes, rising above the Old Port and Marché Forville. Long before the city became associated with cinema and luxury hotels, this hill was the centre of the original settlement.
Its narrow streets, stairways, stone houses and small squares create a strong contrast with the broad avenues below. From the upper part of the district, there are wide views over the bay, the Old Port, the Croisette and the Lérins Islands.
The climb is part of the experience, but it can be steep in places. For visitors who prefer not to walk uphill, Cannes operates a 100% electric minibus between the Town Hall and Le Suquet. The service runs approximately every 25 minutes during the day.
Once at the top, the area around Notre-Dame d’Espérance and the Musée des Explorations du Monde is worth taking slowly. Le Suquet is compact enough to explore without a fixed route, and the pleasure often lies in moving between viewpoints, small restaurants and architectural details.
Marché Forville and the local rhythm
At the foot of Le Suquet sits Marché Forville, one of the best places to see Cannes operating at a more everyday pace.
The market brings together local fruit and vegetables, flowers, cheese, fish, prepared foods and regional products. It is still closely connected to local food culture rather than existing purely as a visitor attraction.
At the moment, however, it is important to know that Forville is undergoing a major renovation. The market operation is temporarily split between the historic site and a large covered hall on the Allées de la Liberté. The city says the wider redevelopment will include a Mediterranean rooftop garden, but work is continuing and the market experience is therefore slightly different from its traditional layout.
Current opening hours also vary by season. The city’s latest French-language listing shows:
- 16 September to 14 June: Tuesday–Friday 08:00–12:30, Saturday–Sunday 08:00–13:30
- 15 June to 15 September: daily 08:00–13:30.
For visitors, the best time is usually mid-morning, before the stalls begin winding down.
A natural route is to start at Forville, continue along Rue Meynadier, then climb gradually towards Le Suquet.
Art on the Croisette
Even the Croisette has more cultural depth than its luxury image might suggest.
La Malmaison, the contemporary art centre at 47 boulevard de la Croisette, is one of the city’s most interesting cultural spaces. It occupies a historic building once linked to the Grand Hôtel and now hosts temporary exhibitions throughout the year.
Current standard opening hours are:
- July–September: daily, 10:00–19:00
- October–June: Tuesday–Sunday, 10:00–13:00 and 14:00–18:00
- Monday closed in the October–June period.
The centre also closes during installation and dismantling of temporary exhibitions, so checking the programme before visiting is important.
This makes La Malmaison a useful reminder that Cannes is not only a festival city for a few weeks each year. Its cultural life continues throughout the seasons.
The Old Port and the space in between
The Old Port sits between two very different versions of Cannes.
On one side are the Palais des Festivals and the beginning of the Croisette. On the other is Le Suquet, rising above the waterfront.
Walking between them takes only a few minutes, but the atmosphere changes noticeably. This small area shows how compact Cannes really is.
A morning can move from market stalls to old streets, then down to the port and back towards the Croisette without feeling like a formal sightseeing circuit.
That compactness is one of Cannes’ strengths. Many of its most interesting contrasts are within easy walking distance of one another.
A short escape to the islands
Another side of Cannes lies just offshore.
The Lérins Islands are visible from the Croisette, but once on the water the atmosphere changes quickly. Sainte-Marguerite and Saint-Honorat offer wooded paths, historic sites and a quieter Mediterranean setting than the city centre.
If you include an island visit, it is better to treat it as a substantial part of the day rather than a quick add-on. Allow at least half a day, especially if you want time to walk rather than simply arrive and leave again.
The boats depart from the Old Port area, around Quai Laubeuf. Before setting out, it is worth checking the latest departure times directly with the ferry companies, as schedules vary seasonally.
Cannes at a slower pace
The easiest way to miss Cannes is to treat it only as a list of famous landmarks.
The city makes more sense when the day includes time between them: coffee near the market, a walk through the old town, an exhibition, a view from the hill, or simply watching the Old Port change through the afternoon.
The Croisette is part of Cannes, and an important one. But it is not the whole story.
Beyond it, the city reveals an older rhythm shaped by markets, hillside streets, art spaces, islands and local neighbourhoods. That is often where Cannes becomes more interesting — and more memorable.
Practical notes
Best time for Marché Forville
Go in the morning, preferably before 11:00. Because the market is currently affected by renovation works, check the current city information before a visit.
Getting up to Le Suquet
The walk is short but steep in places. The electric minibus from the Town Hall is a useful alternative and currently runs roughly every 25 minutes.
La Malmaison
Address: 47 boulevard de la Croisette. Check the current exhibition programme before going, as the centre closes between temporary exhibitions.
How much time to allow
For Forville, Le Suquet, the Old Port and part of the Croisette, I would allow around 3–4 hours at a relaxed pace. Add La Malmaison and it becomes closer to a half-day. Add the Lérins Islands and I would make it a full-day programme. This timing is my editorial recommendation rather than an official estimate.
Useful links
Cannes official tourism website
Marché Forville current information
La Malmaison official information
Cannes transport information